Not many non-Aborigines venture into the Aboriginal homeland that is Arnhem Land at Australia's Top End.
Occupying about 97,000 square kilometres of forests and spectacular rivers and gorges east of the Northern Territory capital of Darwin, Arnhem Land is sacred to the Aboriginal people.
Restricted entry
Mostly, people wishing to visit Arnhem Land only reach Injalak Arts and Crafts Centre in Oenpelli (Gunbalanya), which you can reach from the road to Ubirr in Kakadu National Park.
To venture into Arnhem Land requires getting a permit from the Aboriginal Northern Land Council.
Wilderness resort
Visiting and staying in at least one area of Arnhem Land was made easier by Seven Spirit Bay Wilderness Resort in Garig Gunak Barlu National Park on the Cobourg Peninsula at the northwestern end of Arnhem Land (see map).
A special permit was earlier arranged by Seven Spirit Bay Wilderness Lodge with the Aboriginal tribal elders so visitors could set foot on these ancestral lands. It seems that the lodge has since had a change or changes in ownership so it is not entirely sure whether accommodation there is still available.
For a time it had been part of the Peppers resort hotel group as Peppers Seven Spirit Bay Arnhem Land but left the group in mid-2009.
The lodge
At Seven Spirit Bay, they had what they called "habitats" with floor-to-ceiling louvres to let bird sounds and breezes in. Gardens surrounded outdoor private bathrooms.
A landscaped outdoor pool was just a splash away if you'd care to take a dip.
From the lodge, you had remarkable views over Coral Bay at the very top of Australia's Top End.
Beaches and marine life
In the area are sandy beaches, dunes and associated coastal grasslands, mangroves, rainforest patches, swamps, lagoons, coral reefs, sea grass meadows and rich marine life.
The Cobourg Marine Park protects several rare species, including the dugong and marine turtles such as the loggerhead, hawksbill, green, Olive Ridley, leatherback and flatback turtles.
Aboriginal land
Archeologists are said to be generally agreed that Aboriginal people had been living in the area for 40,000 years.
The parks lie within the clan estates of the Iwaidja-speaking peoples of western Arnhem Land. Custodianship is shared between four Aboriginal clan groups, the Agalda, Ngaindjagar, Madjunbalmi and Muran.
